Everything you need to steam like you’ve done it for years, and nothing you were ever afraid of
Tucked away somewhere at the back of the cupboard is a steamer, pristine and still in its box. A thoughtful gift from a loved one, a housewarming present, you lost your nerve the first time you switched it on and saw the steam rise. What if it scalds the silk? What if it spits? What if it burns? So you quietly packed it away and reached for the old iron.
Here’s the good news: a steamer is one of the least frightening machines you can own. It runs cooler than an iron, asks almost nothing of you, and will make you look like you have your life together in under a minute. It’s also your fabrics’ best friend, and, though you might not expect it, quietly therapeutic. There’s a real calm to be found in the rhythm of a garment hanging while the warm head glides down the cloth, creases loosening and smoothing as it goes.
Follow our simple guide and you will never reach for the old iron again.
Handheld or upright
First, know your steamer. A handheld steamer is the compact one that lives in a drawer or a suitcase, is quick to heat and ideal for travel or a fast refresh. An upright, professional steamer is the larger floor-standing machine with its own hanger pole, built for volume and longer sessions.
Water matters more than you think
The single rule that saves a handheld, and some upright steamers, is the water you use. Avoid the tap, and with any steamer stay clear of scented “ironing” or “steamer” waters; whatever the label promises, they clog and kill a machine fast. In a small handheld especially, the wrong water will spit white or brown flecks onto the very shirt you were trying to rescue, and irreparably damage your steamer. Use the right water – distilled or demineralised is safest – and it runs clean for years. Fill it, switch it on, and wait: about 45 seconds for a handheld, a little longer (up to 15 minutes) for a larger upright. That’s the whole warm-up. No board, no drama.
To descale or not
Descaling is where the two types part ways. A handheld should never be descaled – it will damage the machine – but with the right water there is nothing to descale anyway. An upright is different, depending on the make. Most only heat a small amount of water at a time (insiders call them the “coffee machine” types), and like the handheld they get clogged and need descaling to stay healthy. That’s roughly once a month with daily use, or every three months with lighter use, plus a quick rinse of the tank each week. Some uprights though, like the PRO Steamer, are designed to heat all the water at once to produce steam, which makes them much more resilient and far less prone to scale problems.
Clothes are generally designed to be worn standing up, vertically, so steaming clothes on the hanger means they fall in their natural form, making it easy to take the creases out without putting more in
Tim Oliver, Managing Director at Propress
Master the technique
Hang the garment first, on a door, a rail or a hook. If your steamer comes with a heat-resistant mitt, slip it on, hold the fabric taut with your mitted hand and bring the plate to the cloth with the other. Keep it moving in long downward passes. The plate is heated and non-stick, so it glides rather than drags, and because it runs far cooler than an iron – around 140°C on a handheld, against an iron's 180-plus – it’s far kinder to whatever you point it at. And never aim the steam at your own hand. Steam is still steam.
Same machine, different angles
Steam generally goes down for clothes and sideways for soft furnishings. On anything you wear, work top to bottom in vertical strokes and let gravity take half the job. On upholstery and anything fixed in place, come at it from the side. For curtains, steam where they hang, top to bottom.
Know your fabric
A steamer is kind to most materials. It loves cottons and linens, and silk and rayon (the two everyone panics about) are exactly what a steamer is built for. With low heat and no pressing, the creases simply fall out. The materials worth a second thought are velvet and leather. Try not to press velvet as you will likely crush the pile, although it’s always safer to steam the fabric from the reverse, hanging, and let the nap lift back to life. For leather, and anything you wouldn’t iron (coated or PU fabrics, printed T-shirts and wax jackets), go gently – or simply leave it. And always test an inside seam first, keep your distance, and stop the moment you’re unsure.
Top mistakes to avoid
Wrong water, descaling a handheld, or forgetting to descale an upright – as above. Wrapping the cable tightly around the body when you pack up, which damages it in the end. Instead, if your steamer has a Velcro tie, loop it loosely with that instead. Storing it hot and wet, when you should empty the tank, let the plate cool, then pack it into its bag. And the classic flash of panic – a clacking sound and no steam – which is almost always an airlock or a tank that hasn't clicked fully into place. Reseat it, tap the base once, and carry on.
Quick rules
Always: the right water, mitt on (if you have one), keep it moving.
Never: tap or scented water in a handheld, descaler in a handheld, or steam aimed at skin.
FAQs
Can it burn my clothes?
Far less likely than an iron. It runs cooler and glides rather than presses.
How long per garment?
Under a minute for a shirt or jacket, a little longer for trousers and dresses
How many garments before a refill?
Enough for a typical week on a handheld; an upright's larger tank runs far longer between fills.
Do I need to descale it?
If it’s a handheld, no. If it’s an upright, yes: monthly with daily use, or every three months with lighter use, and rinse the tank weekly.
The gentle, hygienic steam relaxes the fabric and lets the wrinkles fall out, while the heated contoured steam plate glides effortlessly into every part of the garment, smoothing without compressing or damaging it. A steamer is also a great way to keep curtains fresh and soft furnishings looking their best. And there’s no cumbersome, space-hungry ironing board to fight with.